I have been in Napoli now for three days and the nicest thing about it is the coffee and sweets. The streets are full of garbage, the people have not been so nice and Ive had to walk through flooding water half way up my calf, but the sweets and the coffee are FABULOUS.
On the first day the weather was nice so I decided to go to the Island of Capri which apparently has some awesome sea caves. But after buying the ticket, I couldnt work out where to stand and no one could help me so I missed the ferry...instead I went to the island Iscia and on it I found a brilliant castel that I spent some time exploring.
The next day was raining heavily, but I was determined to get to pompeii. It took me about 2 hours to get there because I caught the train the the town Pompeii, not the historical site, and when I finally got there it was steadily raining. To walk around the ancient site was fabulous, the streets the houses and everything was small. But the sophistication was what shocked me the most. I walked down a row of what used to be shops and they apparently had sliding doors, so the stones in the ground had long narrow slits!! There were some plaster casts which had been taken from the volcanic rock of two people and a dog and that was quite amazing...they were in the shape as if being burned alive.
After going to the museum today I learned a little more about the ancient city. Throughout the city there were lots of frescoes and sculptures, mostly they were heavily influenced by the Greeks of the time, but often based on the Roman Gods. What I found most facinating was the Secret Cabinet. This was a collection of paintings and sculptures that had originally been kept in certain gardens of Pompeii and they were all quite erotic!! There were sculptures of men with MASSIVE erect penises, By massive I mean the penis was the length of their leg!!There were homo and heterosexual couples in all kinds of positions and even Hermes mounting a goat!!! There were also stone sculptures of simply the male genitalia, erect. Apparently if a man had been successful it was common to see this outside their house!! But I read something like they would use a lot of bells around the necks of children...so they could hear them coming...so Im not sure weather it was normal to expose these things to kids or not.
After the museum today I ate some FANTASTIC spaghetti bolognase and I think it is the best I have ever eaten. The other day I had pizza, which Napoli is famous for, but I didnt like it so much. The base was so thin and there was so much cheese that it was rather oilly and soggy. The coffees they give you here are very short and black and very strong and almost creamy, I LOVE THEM. The only other nice thing about Napoli is the sweets shops everywhere, where you can buy some really interesting sweets.
Anyway tomorrow I am off to Bari for a couple of nights. The heavy rain here has made my pants, jacket and shoes saturated and I am looking forward to a couple of relaxing days to wash my smelly clothes... talk to you soon...